Article: Hyaluronic Acid - The Main Moisturizing Skin Component
Article:
Issued July 1, 2005
Hyaluronic Acid - The Main Moisturizing Skin Component
By Oksana Strelnikova, plazan skin care consultant, Ost Cosmetics
Hyaluronic acid was first discovered in 1934 by Meyer and Palmer in the vitreous body of a cow’s eye. The chemical nature of hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide of Glycosaminoglycans family, which is part of animals’ and human beings’ skin. It is contained in joints fluid, in ligaments, and in vitreous body, umbilical cord, shark’s skin, and in some bacteria cells.
Almost half of all hyaluronic acid from the human body is contained in the skin, in the connective tissue of derma between collagen and elastin fibers as well as in the cells of the corneal layer – corneocytes. Hyaluronic acid synthesis in derma and epidermis starts slowing down as early as 15 years of age and accelerates under the influence of different factors.
Compared to other moisturizers, hyaluronic acid has got a number of advantages. Hyaluronic acid has the highest hygroscopic property (the ability to absorb moisture) compared to other most common moisturising agents such as glycerine and sorbitol. At the same time unlike glycerine it stays active in dry atmosphere.
The ability of hyaluronic acid to absorb moisture can be clearly demonstrated by adding a 2% solution of hyaluronic acid to water. As a result of that you can easily take the received mixture in hands as gel, in spite of that it is water. Even a 1% solution of hyaluronic acid can possess a noticeable absorbing property since its molecules form something resembling a net. Hyaluronic acid is justly called a molecular sponge sometimes. In cosmetics hyaluronic acid (or its natrium salt, natrium hyalurate) is mainly used as a moisturising component and is considered one of the most "pleasant" cosmetic components.
Hyaluronic acid – is white powder which slowly but completely dissolves in water, forming a thick, colorless, slightly opalescent gel even at 1% concentration. Hyaluronic acid solution evenly distributes on skin surface, forming a light coat which actively absorbs moisture from the air. This facilitates the increase of free water in corneal layer as well as creates “extra moisture” effect, decreasing water evaporation from the skin surface.
The results of scientific researches show that hyaluronic acid does not only serve the purpose of moisturising. It is supposed that it also stimulates epidermal cells migration and decreases collagen production. Besides, polymerous net, which is formed on the skin surface by hyaluronic acid, allows biologically active substances that are part of cosmetics to stay longer on it. This makes it more likely for the biologically active substances to penetrate into epidermis. Hyaluronic acid decreases free radicals formation. Being a natural UV filter, it prevents hard UV radiation penetration in the range of 280-320 nm.
Mostly, hyaluronic acid is derived from the cock's comb or vitreous body of cattle eyes. Lately, it is derived from human beings placenta, as it is of more effectiveness and higher quality as a cosmetic component.
The quality and effectiveness of hyaluronic acid directly depend upon its decontamination methods and molecular weight of the obtained compound.
While decontaminating, the main component is always accompanied by concomitant agent. For example, hyaluronic acid goes with cor proteins. For this reason, the origin of the active component is very important. It is clear that when hyaluronic acid is extracted from birds' combs or micro organisms, the proteins of host cells will be found in impurities. They possess high sensibilizing action upon human beings cells and as a result of that skin cells adapt to the cosmetics, containing these components if used for a long time.
Depending on source and production technology of hyaluronic acid, its molecular weight can range from 70 up to 4000kDa. The longer molecular chain is and the shorter the variation of molecular weight is, the better is the formation of a polymerous net, the more the viscosity of the solution at low concentration is and the bigger the surface of the skin can be covered by continuous moisturizing coat without disturbing overall skin gas exchange. When extracting hyaluronic acid from human placenta using AMI technology, the molecular weight of the derived hyaluronic acid reaches more than 1000kDa which allows for excellent moisturizing effect at concentrations ranging from 0.01% (for dry powder) up to 1-5% for 1% solution.
Hyaluronic acid is recommended for high quality moisturising gels and creams though it can practically be used in any cosmetic products, including make-up.
At present hyaluronic acid and its salts are used in moisturising creams, lipsticks and lip balms, anti cellulite lotions, eyelid gels, sun tan lotions, and anti-inflammatory lotions, wound healing and anti-sun repairing lotions. It is compatible with skin, does not cause allergic reactions or irritations. Cosmetics which contain hyaluronic acid softens, moisturises and protects the skin, noticeably changing its appearance. In medicine hyaluronic acid is used for speeding up wounds healing (especially burns) and in ophthalmology.
Plazan Skin Care offers 2%-hyaluronic acid solution, which is 100% compatible with our skin cells. Being extracted from fetal cells, Plazan hyaluronic acid does not cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Learn more about Plazan hyaluronic acid here
The reason for this is due to the skin's chronological aging, which we can do nothing about. Internal, chronological aging is largely a consequence of genetics and affects skin all over the body.
by Oksana Strelnikova, Ost Cosmetics Ltd., July 1, 2005
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